You always have something to learn. I learnt what Lacón is.
I can't believe that it took me so long to discover something so simple and so good. But what is lacón? Well it's some part of a pig, that's about all I can say. It's basically ham, cut thick so it's like gammon almost. This is cut from one of the big legs of ham that you see in a typical bar over here, taken into a kitchen, cooked in a thick concentration of oil and spicy paprika and then served with crispy bread. It's heavenly but possibly deadly with all of the grease. Therefore I don't want to find out how to make it, as we'd have it every day at home and....
Sunday, January 21, 2007
Sunday, February 05, 2006
Bar Zeruko
Hello hello,
This is a place that we have been visiting for ten years or so, I think. When we lived in England but came here for holidays, two or three times a year Bar Zeruko was the mainstay of our trips to Donosti. Located at the La Bretxa end of Calle de la Pescaderia, here you get a menu of the day for about 9 Euros.
What does this consist of? A menu del dia is three courses of something, it includes wine, served in an appropriate quantity for the number of people, and bread.
Bar Zeruko typically serves either some kind of salad, a bean or lentil type thing, or vegetables for starters. Next comes meat, fish or some such...followed by typical Basque deserts.
Coffee would be extra, the menu changes regularly and the decor is, well I don't know what to say, but I like the cowboy style doors to the toilets. For an extra three Euros or so you can go to La Cueva, in an alley off 31 Augusto. I don't know what's happening at the moment, it's closed - presumably for holidays after Christmas...I hope.
La Cueva is extremely limited in its menus, only three choices for starter and three for main course, but the choices are incredible! Chipirones a la plancha from here are sublime - perhaps the best I've ever tried. The service is really nice too, and you can sit outside when the weather is good. A rare thing in La Parte Vieja. Here the menu never changes, or at least not in the last two years, but again... I hope it never does.
This is a place that we have been visiting for ten years or so, I think. When we lived in England but came here for holidays, two or three times a year Bar Zeruko was the mainstay of our trips to Donosti. Located at the La Bretxa end of Calle de la Pescaderia, here you get a menu of the day for about 9 Euros.
What does this consist of? A menu del dia is three courses of something, it includes wine, served in an appropriate quantity for the number of people, and bread.
Bar Zeruko typically serves either some kind of salad, a bean or lentil type thing, or vegetables for starters. Next comes meat, fish or some such...followed by typical Basque deserts.
Coffee would be extra, the menu changes regularly and the decor is, well I don't know what to say, but I like the cowboy style doors to the toilets. For an extra three Euros or so you can go to La Cueva, in an alley off 31 Augusto. I don't know what's happening at the moment, it's closed - presumably for holidays after Christmas...I hope.
La Cueva is extremely limited in its menus, only three choices for starter and three for main course, but the choices are incredible! Chipirones a la plancha from here are sublime - perhaps the best I've ever tried. The service is really nice too, and you can sit outside when the weather is good. A rare thing in La Parte Vieja. Here the menu never changes, or at least not in the last two years, but again... I hope it never does.
Monday, January 30, 2006
On the Cheap
It can happen. You're on holiday, you love eating, you're hungry right now. If you had the cash you would have no problem getting something to eat, especially here. However, you haven't got the cash! So where do you go? You may remember that I hinted that this would be coming up a few days ago. Why the wait? Every single thing on this blog is tested by me personally, so I eat all the meals in all of the restaurants or cafes etc. I'm not that greedy so it takes time.
The first stop was easy. This place is tremendous and we often eat here: the Churreria Santa Lucia!
You find this place on Portu Kalea and it is a very typical Platos Combinados type of place. This means that you can order a variety of dishes consisting mainly of various selections from: sausages (frankfurter style), steaks, burgers, chips, fried eggs, chicken, pasta etc. Portions are big, usually come with bread and a big pile of salad. It isn't fancy but it is cheap - less than ten euros a head at the most. So why go here and not to one of the other, similar places? Style. Pure style!
The Santa Lucia is a real throwback to the 1950s. It looks like it has never changed and I hope it never will.
The first stop was easy. This place is tremendous and we often eat here: the Churreria Santa Lucia!
You find this place on Portu Kalea and it is a very typical Platos Combinados type of place. This means that you can order a variety of dishes consisting mainly of various selections from: sausages (frankfurter style), steaks, burgers, chips, fried eggs, chicken, pasta etc. Portions are big, usually come with bread and a big pile of salad. It isn't fancy but it is cheap - less than ten euros a head at the most. So why go here and not to one of the other, similar places? Style. Pure style!
The Santa Lucia is a real throwback to the 1950s. It looks like it has never changed and I hope it never will.
Sunday, January 22, 2006
Where to now?
So, one of the aims of this blog has been to avoid the typical everyday Basque Country joints. Where does every American tourist go to, for example? Where do the BBC go to when they come to Donosti?
Well, La Cuchara maybe - previously mentioned here! Other well known bars round town - El Tamboril (spelt right? I don't know!) but fantastic Champis (mushrooms on a stick on a piece of bread) and croquettas to die for!
Round the old part you can find all sorts of pintxo in all kinds of bar, for now. But what about a couple of recomendations for lunch? What if you love the ambience of Donosti but aren't loaded?
Watch this space...
Well, La Cuchara maybe - previously mentioned here! Other well known bars round town - El Tamboril (spelt right? I don't know!) but fantastic Champis (mushrooms on a stick on a piece of bread) and croquettas to die for!
Round the old part you can find all sorts of pintxo in all kinds of bar, for now. But what about a couple of recomendations for lunch? What if you love the ambience of Donosti but aren't loaded?
Watch this space...
Simple, Straight Forward
Take:
One small chunk of bread
Two guindillas
One third of an anchovie fillet
One cocktail stick
Combine
Eat
Serve with:
Red wine
One small chunk of bread
Two guindillas
One third of an anchovie fillet
One cocktail stick
Combine
Eat
Serve with:
Red wine
Time has Flown
Well, it's January, nearly February! In a few weeks it will be carnival, then Easter then summer once again, and the year will have gone in record time.
So, what has been happening and why haven't there been any entries on this blog?
Well, summer happened, and much time was spent doing nothing at all or floating around on the sea. After summer came the slow drift back to work which was closely followed by getting ready for Christmas. What can I say? I'm really lazy!
Anyway, now sporadic posts will follow...
So, what has been happening and why haven't there been any entries on this blog?
Well, summer happened, and much time was spent doing nothing at all or floating around on the sea. After summer came the slow drift back to work which was closely followed by getting ready for Christmas. What can I say? I'm really lazy!
Anyway, now sporadic posts will follow...
Tuesday, June 14, 2005
La Cuchara de San Telmo
elBulli in Girona is considered amongst the finest restaurants in the world, chef Ferran Adrià without doubt world class and with this in mind it may or may not surprise you to find two graduates of the aforementioned establishment in the heart of Donosti's Parte Vieja. However, this is the case and a visit to La Cuchara could be one of the highlights of a visit here. A tiny eatery concealed in an alleyway at the San Telmo end of the Calle 31 de Agosto you will have to fight your way to the bar. This place is getting an international reputation, with good reason.
Try ordering the Carrillera and you will not be disappointed, a recipe is available here courtesy of www.bodegarturo.com
INGREDIENTES
Carrilleras: 1 kg. de carrilleras limpias, 2 cebollas,
3 zanahorias, 2 tomates maduros,
hierbas aromáticas (laurel, tomillo, orégano,...),
1 copa de vino blanco seco.
Mollejas: 250 gr. de mollejas, 3 dientes de ajo, 1 guindilla,
50 cc. de aceite de oliva virgen.
Risotto: 2 boletus grandes,
1 puerro, 150 gr. de mantequilla, 50 cc. de nata,
200 gr. de arroz cocido.
PREPARACIÓN
Ponemos las carrilleras en una tartera de barro acompañadas
del resto de sus ingredientes. Dejar cocer a fuego lento hasta que estén tiernas (2 h. aprox.). Cuando estén un poco frías se cortan en lonchas de +/- 1 cm. y se reservan. Trituramos la salsa y la pasamos por el chino. Las mollejas se saltean en una sartén con aceite de oliva,
la guindilla y el ajo. Una vez doradas salpimentar. A parte, pochar en la mantequilla el puerro bien picado, añadir los boletus cortados y su jugo. Saltear, añadir el arroz y salar.
Finalmente, presentar la carrillera colocada en forma de abanico, salsear
con su salsa, añadirle las mollejas salteadas y terminar la presentación con
una corona de arroz.
Here is a translation done by a well known search engine...
INGREDIENTS
Jaws: 1 kg of clean jaws, 2 onions,
3 mature carrots, 2 tomatos,
aromatic grass (laurel, thyme, oregano...),
1 glass of dry white wine.
Mollejas: 250 gr.. of mollejas, 3 teeth of garlic, 1 guindilla,
50 cc. of virgin olive oil.
Risotto: 2 boletus great,
1 puerro, 150 gr.. of mantequilla, 50 cc. of cream,
200 gr.. of cooked rice.
PREPARATION
We put the jaws in a tartera of mud accompanied
of the rest of its ingredients. To let cook to untimed fire until they are tender (2 h. approx). When they are a little you cold cut in lonchas of +/- 1 cm. and they are reserved. We crushed the sauce and we passed it through the Chinese. Mollejas is skipped in a frying pan with olive oil,
guindilla and garlic. Once gilded to salpimentar. To part, to pochar in mantequilla puerro well mincemeat, to add boletus cut and its juice. To skip, to add the rice and to salar.
Finally, to present/display the jaw placed in fan form, to salsear
with its sauce, to add mollejas skipped and to finish the presentation to him with
a rice crown.
elBullirestaurant
Cala Montjoi S/N
Tel. 972150457
Fax. 972150717
17480 Roses (Girona) www.elbulli.com
La Cuchara de San Telmo
31 de Agosto, 28
San Sebastián-Donostia
20003
+34 943 42 0840
Try ordering the Carrillera and you will not be disappointed, a recipe is available here courtesy of www.bodegarturo.com
INGREDIENTES
Carrilleras: 1 kg. de carrilleras limpias, 2 cebollas,
3 zanahorias, 2 tomates maduros,
hierbas aromáticas (laurel, tomillo, orégano,...),
1 copa de vino blanco seco.
Mollejas: 250 gr. de mollejas, 3 dientes de ajo, 1 guindilla,
50 cc. de aceite de oliva virgen.
Risotto: 2 boletus grandes,
1 puerro, 150 gr. de mantequilla, 50 cc. de nata,
200 gr. de arroz cocido.
PREPARACIÓN
Ponemos las carrilleras en una tartera de barro acompañadas
del resto de sus ingredientes. Dejar cocer a fuego lento hasta que estén tiernas (2 h. aprox.). Cuando estén un poco frías se cortan en lonchas de +/- 1 cm. y se reservan. Trituramos la salsa y la pasamos por el chino. Las mollejas se saltean en una sartén con aceite de oliva,
la guindilla y el ajo. Una vez doradas salpimentar. A parte, pochar en la mantequilla el puerro bien picado, añadir los boletus cortados y su jugo. Saltear, añadir el arroz y salar.
Finalmente, presentar la carrillera colocada en forma de abanico, salsear
con su salsa, añadirle las mollejas salteadas y terminar la presentación con
una corona de arroz.
Here is a translation done by a well known search engine...
INGREDIENTS
Jaws: 1 kg of clean jaws, 2 onions,
3 mature carrots, 2 tomatos,
aromatic grass (laurel, thyme, oregano...),
1 glass of dry white wine.
Mollejas: 250 gr.. of mollejas, 3 teeth of garlic, 1 guindilla,
50 cc. of virgin olive oil.
Risotto: 2 boletus great,
1 puerro, 150 gr.. of mantequilla, 50 cc. of cream,
200 gr.. of cooked rice.
PREPARATION
We put the jaws in a tartera of mud accompanied
of the rest of its ingredients. To let cook to untimed fire until they are tender (2 h. approx). When they are a little you cold cut in lonchas of +/- 1 cm. and they are reserved. We crushed the sauce and we passed it through the Chinese. Mollejas is skipped in a frying pan with olive oil,
guindilla and garlic. Once gilded to salpimentar. To part, to pochar in mantequilla puerro well mincemeat, to add boletus cut and its juice. To skip, to add the rice and to salar.
Finally, to present/display the jaw placed in fan form, to salsear
with its sauce, to add mollejas skipped and to finish the presentation to him with
a rice crown.
elBullirestaurant
Cala Montjoi S/N
Tel. 972150457
Fax. 972150717
17480 Roses (Girona) www.elbulli.com
La Cuchara de San Telmo
31 de Agosto, 28
San Sebastián-Donostia
20003
+34 943 42 0840
Alubias de Tolosa
During the English winter I really enjoy black peas, especially on bonfire night. Alubias remind me of black peas a little bit, but only a little bit.
Another feature of Alubias de Tolosa that reminds me of home is black pudding, a basque speciality and also a speciality of north west England where I'm from.
Does this sound like a promising combination? To a lot of people it won't but hang on and wait for the recipe.
WARNING!!!
This is one you'll struggle to find the right ingredients for so maybe it is one to try in a restaurant over here, although I once found a jar of Alubias de Tolosa in Harvey Nick's food hall for about fifteen pounds (not a bargain).
This recipe for alubias comes from Roberto Ruiz, chef of the Fronton Beotibar in Tolosa itself.
Ingredients
1 kilogram alubias de Tolosa soaked in water overnight then drained
4-5 liters water
Salt
4 cloves garlic, peeled
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 onion
1.5 kilograms pork ribs
3 black puddings (ones with onion are nicest)
guindillas de Ibarra (pickled green peppers)
1 cabbage
Method
Alubias
Put the alubias in an earthenware dish with cold water. Add oil and the onion and heat to boiling on the hob. Add a little more cold water to stop the beans from boiling and cook slowly over a low heat occasionally adding another glass of water if necessary. Halfway through heat some oil in a deep frying pan, fry the garlic cloves until golden and then remove them. Add the chopped onion. After the onion browns, add the beans from the earthernware dish. When the cooking is finished, which takes around 4 to 5 hours, add salt and let the beans rest a half hour
Accompaniment
Finely chop ther cabbage, and put it in to cook with the ribs on a hot ring for two hours. Season with salt and set aside. Prick the black puddings and cook for around 15 mins.
To Serve
Place the cabbage, well drained, in the center of a large serving dish. Cover with alubias and arrange the ribs and black pudding around it. Serve the guindillas on a side plate to be chopped and added to the beans as desired.
Another feature of Alubias de Tolosa that reminds me of home is black pudding, a basque speciality and also a speciality of north west England where I'm from.
Does this sound like a promising combination? To a lot of people it won't but hang on and wait for the recipe.
WARNING!!!
This is one you'll struggle to find the right ingredients for so maybe it is one to try in a restaurant over here, although I once found a jar of Alubias de Tolosa in Harvey Nick's food hall for about fifteen pounds (not a bargain).
This recipe for alubias comes from Roberto Ruiz, chef of the Fronton Beotibar in Tolosa itself.
Ingredients
1 kilogram alubias de Tolosa soaked in water overnight then drained
4-5 liters water
Salt
4 cloves garlic, peeled
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 onion
1.5 kilograms pork ribs
3 black puddings (ones with onion are nicest)
guindillas de Ibarra (pickled green peppers)
1 cabbage
Method
Alubias
Put the alubias in an earthenware dish with cold water. Add oil and the onion and heat to boiling on the hob. Add a little more cold water to stop the beans from boiling and cook slowly over a low heat occasionally adding another glass of water if necessary. Halfway through heat some oil in a deep frying pan, fry the garlic cloves until golden and then remove them. Add the chopped onion. After the onion browns, add the beans from the earthernware dish. When the cooking is finished, which takes around 4 to 5 hours, add salt and let the beans rest a half hour
Accompaniment
Finely chop ther cabbage, and put it in to cook with the ribs on a hot ring for two hours. Season with salt and set aside. Prick the black puddings and cook for around 15 mins.
To Serve
Place the cabbage, well drained, in the center of a large serving dish. Cover with alubias and arrange the ribs and black pudding around it. Serve the guindillas on a side plate to be chopped and added to the beans as desired.
For what we are about...
The Basque Country stands apart, not only from Spain but from the rest of Europe, in part due to its amazing food. Ranging from the normal kitchen output from the average ama de casa to Michelin starred restaurants, the pure quality of ingredients and the care and imagination shown produce world class dishes.
Great tradition is complemented by innovation, methods are passed from generation to generation. Seasonal produce is always used and combined in an authentic Basque way.
Can this be reproduced eslewhere? Experience tells us that not everything is possible, water makes a big difference to some recipes as does climate.
So no, not everything can be reproduced but on this page we will introduce some of the classics to you and also some of the cutting edge new cooking.
Tips on where to eat and what to see in the Basque country will also feature.
But also a plea...
We live here and work here, some places are hidden gems, if you come here and enjoy them keep them to yourselves!
Great tradition is complemented by innovation, methods are passed from generation to generation. Seasonal produce is always used and combined in an authentic Basque way.
Can this be reproduced eslewhere? Experience tells us that not everything is possible, water makes a big difference to some recipes as does climate.
So no, not everything can be reproduced but on this page we will introduce some of the classics to you and also some of the cutting edge new cooking.
Tips on where to eat and what to see in the Basque country will also feature.
But also a plea...
We live here and work here, some places are hidden gems, if you come here and enjoy them keep them to yourselves!
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